The complete guide to Lalibela

Lalibela, in the Amhara region about 640 kilometres north of Addis Ababa, sits at more than 2,500 metres among the Lasta Mountains. Named after King Lalibela of the Zagwe dynasty, who ruled in the late 12th and early 13th centuries, it is often called the “New Jerusalem of Africa” and is one of Ethiopia’s most visited destinations.

Tradition holds that King Lalibela set out to build a new Jerusalem after Muslim conquests made pilgrimage to the Holy Land difficult. The result was eleven monolithic churches carved downward into volcanic rock, still in daily use and inscribed by UNESCO in 1978.

The northern group includes Bete Medhane Alem, one of the largest monolithic churches in the world; Bete Maryam, among the oldest and most beautifully decorated; Bete Meskel; Bete Denagel; and the linked chapels of Bete Golgotha and Bete Mikael, closely associated with the king himself. The eastern group includes Bete Amanuel, believed to have been a royal chapel; Bete Merkorios; Bete Abba Libanos, partly detached from the surrounding rock; and Bete Gabriel-Rufael, thought to have been a palace. Standing alone is Bete Giyorgis, carved in the shape of a perfect cross and the most photographed landmark in Ethiopia.

Lalibela can be visited from September through July, and October to March brings the clearest skies. Genna on 7 January and Timkat on 19 January draw thousands of pilgrims and offer unforgettable spectacles.

Beyond the churches, attend a traditional service, climb to the mountain monastery of Asheton Maryam, explore the local market, join a coffee ceremony, and try injera, doro wat, tibs, shiro and tej honey wine. Day trips lead to the cave church of Yemrehanna Kristos, about 42 kilometres away, the cliffside monastery of Na’akuto La’ab and rural village walks.

Two days cover the main churches; three to four days, which we recommend for most travellers, add monasteries, hikes and cultural experiences; five or more suit photographers and those seeking deeper immersion. Lalibela has accommodation for every budget, from lodges with mountain views to simple guesthouses, and is reached by daily flights from Addis Ababa.

Dress modestly, remove your shoes before entering churches, carry a light jacket for the evenings, respect ceremonies and photography restrictions, and hire a licensed local guide. Few places in the world combine history, faith, architecture and living tradition so completely.