Lalibela churches guide: discover Ethiopia’s rock-hewn wonders

Nestled in the highlands of northern Ethiopia, Lalibela is one of Africa’s most extraordinary historical and spiritual destinations. Its rock-hewn churches, carved directly into solid volcanic rock, attract pilgrims, historians, travellers and photographers from around the world.

The churches were created under King Lalibela of the Zagwe dynasty in the 12th and 13th centuries. Each was excavated from a single mass of rock, and all have remained active places of worship for more than 800 years. UNESCO inscribed them in 1978 for their exceptional medieval engineering, religious significance and remarkable preservation.

The churches fall into groups connected by tunnels, trenches and passageways. In the northern group, Bete Medhane Alem, the House of the Saviour of the World, is the largest monolithic church on earth; Bete Maryam is one of the oldest and best loved, with beautiful interior painting; Bete Meskel and Bete Denagel stand alongside.

The eastern group includes Bete Amanuel, a superb example of Aksumite-style architecture; Bete Merkorios, believed once to have been a prison; Bete Abba Libanos, said to have been built by the king’s wife in a single night with the help of angels; and Bete Gabriel-Rufael, which may have been a royal palace.

Most visitors save Bete Giyorgis, the Church of St George, for last. Cut in the shape of a cross and set in a deep trench, it is one of the greatest engineering achievements of the medieval world and the most photographed church in Ethiopia.

Allow at least two full days, wear comfortable shoes, dress modestly, carry a hat and sunscreen, and respect ceremonies and photography restrictions. A knowledgeable local guide will unlock the stories behind every carving. Join us to discover the churches with guides who grew up in their shadow.